Cowl inlet ramp micro applied.
Cowl inlet ramp micro applied.
Alternate air inlet hole cut in snorkel.
Alternate air inlet test fitting prior to floxing.
Alternate air inlet floxed to the snorkel.
Construction Blog and Builder's Resource
Cowl inlet ramp micro applied.
Cowl inlet ramp micro applied.
Alternate air inlet hole cut in snorkel.
Alternate air inlet test fitting prior to floxing.
Alternate air inlet floxed to the snorkel.
I was happy with the behind-the-spinner nutplate installation until I realized that I put them on the top cowl when they belong on the bottom. Argh!! What an idiot!
I fixed them today and will flox those eight rivet holes sometime in the next few days.
I was happy with the behind-the-spinner nutplate installation until I realized that I put them on the top cowl when they belong on the bottom. Argh!! What an idiot!
I fixed them today and will flox those eight rivet holes sometime in the next few days.
Cowl inlet ramps with scribe lines highlighted for trimming.
Cowl inlet ramps with initial trim completed. The glass is fairly easy to cut with a combination of left & right tin snips.
Cowl inlet drilling to the upper cowl underway.
Cowl inlet drilling to the upper cowl complete. The four clecos securing each inlet to the cowling are drilled only through the honeycomb and NOT through the fiberglass, itself. Carefully, carefully…
Left cowl inlet with prop governor clearance hole cut out.
First test fitting of the cowl halves with the inlets in place. Everything went on like it should, so I was pleased if more than a little surprised.
Cowl inlets floxed in place.
Cowlings set in place overnight to permit inlet ramp flox to dry in its actual position.
Snorkel marked for initial trimming to air filter frame.
Snorkel marked for initial trimming to air filter frame.
Snorkel marked for initial trimming to fuel servo.
Snorkel being reformed (via heat gun and pressure (I used both the beer bottle and hammer handle)) to clear the Cylinder 2 intake tube.
Air filter frame and snorkel drilled together in final position.
Air filter frame and snorkel floxed together.
Upper cowling interior coated with epoxy resin.
Lower cowling interior coated with epoxy resin.
Empennage fairing interior coated with epoxy resin
That persnickety Camloc receptacle has been changed out for a floating type and that seems to have solved the problem.
Right side screw holes drilled.
Left side screw holes drilled.
On to the baffles! This is the entire collection of components in the sub-kit.
The first bits underway.
Baffles and doublers riveted and ready for the next step.
Some of the rivets joining these two pieces can’t be squeezed and must be driven. I had to get creative in order to do that on my own, but it worked out fine.
Ready for the next step.
Done and ready for the next step.
Aft right baffle ready for the next step.
Aft right baffle ready for the next step.