Camloc flanges deburred, countersunk, and clecoed for riveting.
Camloc flange riveting underway.
Camloc flange riveting complete – along the firewall top and sides, anyway.
Upper cowling set in place again, now resting its aft edge largely on the Camloc flanges. A little sanding tomorrow, then mark and cut an ⅛” strip from the aft edge, then some more sanding (are you seeing a theme here?), and the upper cowl should be ready tape in place and drill for the Camloc grommets.
Upper cowling set in place again, now resting its aft edge largely on the Camloc flanges. A little sanding tomorrow, then mark and cut an ⅛” strip from the aft edge, then some more sanding (are you seeing a theme here?), and the upper cowl should be ready tape in place and drill for the Camloc grommets.
Upper central Camloc flanges drilled in place. I only had to fudge the spacing on one of them (both sides of the middle flange) and I’m fine with the results.
All upper and side firewall Camloc flanges drilled in place.
All upper and side firewall Camloc flanges drilled in place.
Right side Camloc flanges deburred, countersunk, and clecoed in place for riveting.
Empennage fairing drilled to stabilizers and aft fuselage. The Van’s-suggested method of placing a light under the fairing and trying to spot the holes is a Rube Goldberg solution, at best. Use the right tool for any job, in this case a strap duplicator. Easy-peasy.
Empennage fairing drilled to stabilizers and aft fuselage. The Van’s-suggested method of placing a light under the fairing and trying to spot the holes is a Rube Goldberg solution, at best. Use the right tool for any job, in this case a strap duplicator. Easy-peasy.
Empennage fairing countersunk and nutplate installation underway. Many of the nutplates will be VERY challenging to solid rivet without removing the vertical stabilizer as suggested by the manual. In my case, that’s simply not going to happen. I’m using MK-319-BS pop rivets to attach the nutplates.
Empennage fairing countersunk and nutplate installation underway. Many of the nutplates will be VERY challenging to solid rivet without removing the vertical stabilizer as suggested by the manual. In my case, that’s simply not going to happen. I’m using MK-319-BS pop rivets to attach the nutplates.
Cowl attach hinges and pins underway.
Cowl attach hinges and pins underway.
Cowl attach hinges and pins underway.
This is how far I got when attempting to insert the left-side upper pin. Yes, it was pre-curved and lubricated. Yes, I filed the hinge eyes, though more is probably necessary. The aluminum pin, though, has the integrity of overcooked spaghetti. It may very well get easier as time goes by, but the initial fit – and the pin’s unavoidable tendency to bend – is entirely unacceptable.
I initially intended to use Skybolt Camlocs (as I did with great satisfaction on my first RV), but they were out of stock when I riveted my fuselage-to-firewall skins way back when and I figured I’d try the stock hinges this time around. Yeah, the hinges are a no-go.
I’ll be ordering the Camlocs this week and drilling out the firewall-mounted hinges. I suppose it could be worse, but I’m definitely annoyed. Ugh.
Spinner front bulkhead bolts torqued and safety-wired.
Spinner plate assembly and front spinner bulkhead nutplates riveted.
Yes, there’s a little oopsie on one of those holes (a locating magnet failure to accurately locate that pre-drilled hole), but the nutplate isn’t compromised, so I’m not concerned. Onward!
Spinner is done and clecoed in place for the moment. The manual says to install it now with the permanent screws, but a few pages later (in the cowling instructions) it has to come off again, so best to leave the screwing until later. So to speak.
Left empennage gap cover bent and clecoed in place.
